($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Although Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, one of Alsace’s great producers, was founded in 1959, the family traces its winemaking origins to 1620. Still family owned and run, they own about 100 acres, which they farm organically and biodynamically. Their wines never fail to astonish, which is why I was thrilled to run across this captivating Muscat. A deceptive wine, Muscat leads with an enthralling floral character that makes you think it’s sweet. Not so, especially in Zind-Humbrecht’s hands. A fabulous firm minerality and zesty backbone follow the floral introduction. Good weight, length, and complexity make it a delight to drink now, either by itself or with the panoply of flavors in a sushi omakase.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2024