($22):  The appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté, is an anomaly in Bourgogne, the epicenter of terroir-based viticulture, because it is named for the grape, not the site.  The grapes for Bourgogne Aligoté can come from anywhere in Bourgogne, from the Côte Auxerrois in the north near Chablis to Mâcon in the south.  (The French prefer the use of the term Bourgogne, rather than Burgundy since that’s the traditional name of the region.  Plus, in French, the word burgundy can be translated as maroon or, Mon Dieu, as Bordeaux.)  Aligoté’s racy acidity and invigorating freshness makes it an ideal choice for summertime drinking.  This one from Louis Latour, a top Beaune-based domaine and négociant, combines the grape’s vivacity with the added ripeness due to climate change to produce a balanced and refreshing example.  It’s a bargain, so stock up for the summer!
92 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2024