($52, Ideal Wine & Spirits): Located in the town of Congy in Coteaux du Morin, just south of the Côtes des Blancs, Sébastien Girost is located in an obscure area of Champagne. This release, made entirely from Pinot Meunier from a single vineyard, Dure Peine, planted in 1929, is, in a word — captivating. It combines a delicate fruitiness, characteristic of Pinot Meunier, with an alluring yet delicate exotic kick. A steely backbone enhances its charms. Sometimes it’s nice to be off the beaten track.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 11, 2024