Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmelottes Vieilles Vignes “1939” 2020

($80):  Unlike the rest of Burgundy, the 1er Cru classification in Montagny has little significance since a whopping 58 percent of vineyards are classified as such.  In any case, this Montagny is outstanding, perhaps the best I have ever had.  It shows what old vines in the hands of a detailed-oriented and talented producer can achieve.  It is the kind of wine that catches you by surprise because it’s “only” Montagny.  After the first sip you wonder, “where did that come from?”  Its gracefulness matches its power, defining impeccable balance.  Gorgeous uplifting acidity amplifies its long and luxurious finish.  I know, $80 for Montagny?  Your impression of Montagny will be changed forever after you taste it.
97 Michael Apstein Jun 11, 2024