($56, Vineyard Brands): Louis Michel, one of Chablis’ top producers, eschews oak fermentation or aging for their Chablis, insisting that the use of stainless steel allows the magical combination of Chardonnay grape grown on Kimmerigdian limestone soil to shine. And shine it does with their 2020s. This Butteaux, a vineyard that sits on the Montmains hill and could be labeled as Montmains, displays a gorgeous combination of power and purity, all amplified by riveting acidity in the finish that imbues it with energy. Drink now or let it develop for another five to ten years because, in my experience, their wines do take on added complexity with age. The quality-to-price ratio is outstanding.
95 Michael Apstein Jun 4, 2024