($19, Vias Imports): Vermentino is a go-to grape/wine when you yearn for a reasonably priced accompaniment for seafood. That is not to say there are no great upper-end renditions of Vermentino — there are — but there are also many more affordable releases that will introduce tasters to the charms of this grape/wine. Take this one from Nuraghe Crabioni. It delivers good body with adequate, but not piercing acidity. There’s a delicate saline-like quality to it, without being aggressive. It is a splendid introduction to Vermentino. Think of it as a Vermentino on training wheels.
88 Michael Apstein May 28, 2024