($23): Aligoté is Burgundy’s “other” white grape and it’s the only time a Burgundy appellation wine carries the grape name on the label. The grapes can come from anywhere throughout Burgundy, but in Goisot’s case, they come from around their estate in the Côtes de Auxerre, in northern Burgundy, near Chablis. Goisot, certainly one of the best producers in the region, makes a terrific line of wines. You can safely buy any of their releases and be satisfied. Goisot’s Aligoté has the characteristic verve and energy emblematic of that grape coupled and balanced by the ripeness of the vintage. It would be a great choice to cut the heat and humidity of summer and works equally well as a stand-alone aperitif or on the table with something from the sea. Its cutting acidity also makes it a good choice for that hard-to-match dish with a touch of spice.
92 Michael Apstein May 28, 2024