($19, Jenny & Françoise Selections):  Wines carrying the Vin de France appellation can be either wonderful or awful because they need not obey any rules.  The winemaker decides everything — not the appellation authorities.  Some of France’s greatest maverick winemakers have turned out sensational wines using their own quirky philosophy.  Others have turned out wines that are, shall we say, not so enjoyable.  This one’s a clear winner.  Gaspard’s Sauvignon Blanc is from the land of Sauvignon Blanc, the Touraine in the Loire Valley.  I have no idea what rule he broke that prevented even a Touraine IGP labeling.  What is impressive, especially at the price, is how it tastes more like a Sancerre, with a touch of chalky minerality, rather than a fruity, varietal Sauvignon Blanc.  It would be a good choice this summer because its racy refreshing profile will cut the heat — and spicy food — nicely.
90 Michael Apstein May 28, 2024