($80, Sovereign Wine Imports): Unsurprisingly, this Chardonnay, with its 14.5 percent stated alcohol, delivers considerably more oomph than Capensis’ Silene bottling. More complexity accompanies the additional power, yet the wine is not flamboyant or over-the-top. There is a subtle melon-like fruitiness. It also displays a captivating minerality. Bright acidity imbues it with energy and balances its weight nicely.
93 Michael Apstein May 14, 2024