($30): Florent Rouve, owner of Domaine Rijckaert, explains that he wants to “maintain the freshness and purity” of the grapes, so eschews aging in new oak barrels and batonnâge (stirring of the lees), which tends to increase richness of the wines. Though Les Cray means chalk, Rouve notes that the soil is not particularly chalky, just rocky. With prominent stoniness, this chiseled Mâcon Lugny reflects its origins. It delivers more than we are used to from wines from that appellation and will be a fine choice for drinking this summer.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024