($72): The French wine authorities have finally identified and codified Premier Cru vineyards for Pouilly-Fuissé so that moniker along with the vineyard name is now appearing on the label, just as in the rest of Burgundy. Unsurprisingly, the elevation of some vineyards to Premier Cru classification has brought with it an elevation of price. This balanced Les Chevrières spent 18 months aging in oak, but you would never guess it because of how seamlessly the wood has melded into the wine. Domaine Merlin, one of the Mâconnais’ top producers, has combined good density, minerality, and bright acidity in this beauty. It shows stature that justifies its Premier Cru status.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 9, 2024