($38, Louis Latour, USA):  Appellations within the Mâconnais, like Viré-Clessé, are the place to go to find affordable, or at least more affordable, white Burgundy.  Viré and Clessé, two adjacent villages whose wines previously were labeled as Mâcon-Viré and Mâcon-Clessé, convinced French wine regulators that their wines were distinctive enough to merit their own appellations.  In general, all things being equal, wines from Viré-Clessé are just more interesting than those from the broad Mâcon-Villages appellation.  Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has made a consistently impressive Viré-Classé.  Many cases of past vintages have gone into my cellar.  Their racy 2022 continues that tradition.  It combines depth with a cutting, chiseled and lengthy finish.
92 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2024