($350): Full disclosure — I have not become enamored of the wines of the Jura because of their often-oxidized style. This one could change that because it is fresh despite having undergone four years — you read that correctly — of fermentation. Harvested in the fall of 2018, Domaine Ganevat bottled it in July 2022 without any added sulfur. It is old-vine Chardonnay planted on the limestone/clay soil, which likely explains its depth, vigor, and energy. Glossy and rich, it is a perfect choice for Comté, the cheese of the region. But I would not limit your pairing possibilities just to that. It would be an equally satisfying choice with a roast chicken.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2024