($65): Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, grandson of the founder of the estate, took it over in 2000 when he was just 20 years old. My first and only experience with their wines — it certainly will not be my last — was at a tiny restaurant in Cluny, in southern Burgundy. Once again, a crisp lively white with good depth accented a dish that should call for a red — a hearty stuffed leg of guinea fowl. Rully, a top village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is rapidly becoming a fine source of both red and white Burgundy as prices of Côte d’Or wines often now have three figures. Ponsot’s vibrant Rully delivers a seamless combination of citrus-infused fruitiness buttressed by stony firmness. Its riveting profile was the perfect foil for the gamey bird, but it would be equally enjoyable with grilled swordfish.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024