($21, Regal Wine Imports):  This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity.  Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol.  But it is not light in enjoyment.  That racy acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish enhance its appeal.
89 Michael Apstein May 30, 2023