($12, Palm Bay International): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. Time in the glass reveals an alluring smokey earthy quality. This mid-weight wine has fine tannins that provide structure, but don’t intrude on current enjoyment. Its freshness and vivacity remind you that Sicily is not necessarily too hot for fine wine. This bargain-priced red is perfect for wintertime fare.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022