($17, Louis Latour, USA): Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay. Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. And it does. Many top Chablis makers, like Simonnet-Febvre, make one. Their 2020 is cutting and lively, just as it should be, conveying bright mineral flavors couple with zesty acidity. This refreshing wine is ideal for current consumption this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022