($37, Louis Latour, USA): Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve. French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status. Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. Even now, I’ve seen prices of Marsannay from well-regarded growers commanding prices of $60+. All of which explains why I’m so enthusiastic about this one from Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based negociant. Less prestigious appellations, like Marsannay, benefitted from the warmth of the 2019 vintage, which explains why this one has a healthy balance of ripe fruit and earthy herbal notes. The Latour style that brings out the acidity in the wines acts as a perfect balance, imbuing the wine with freshness and verve. Real Côte de Nuits Burgundy for under $40 is rare, so my advice is to stock up. It is remarkably approachable now.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022