($40, Jeanne Marie Selection): In the ongoing search for more affordable red Burgundy, consumers must look to less familiar appellations, such as this one, Côte de Nuits-Villages, which encompasses vines in five different villages in the Côte de Nuits, but not the well-known ones. Going from north to south, they are Fixin, Brochon, Prémeaux-Prissy, Comblanchien, and Corgoloin, the southernmost bordering the Côte de Beaune. Domaine Jean Féry et Files, a family domaine of about 34 acres all of which are certified as organic, owns vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or. Fréy’s Le Clos de Magny, located in Corgoloin, is well-positioned on the slope. Their 2020 is simply stunning. It conveys a seamless combination of fruit and herbal flavors that dance on the palate. Refined tannins contribute to its silky seductive texture. Its freshness and vivacity, which could have been difficult to achieve in such a warm year, is remarkable. This is my ideal of Burgundy — flavor without weight.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 19, 2022