($32): Wölffer Estate, though best known for their Rosés (they list seven on their website) make a bevy of other top-notch wines, including this Malbec. I am not a Malbec enthusiastic because all too often the wines are heavy, monotonic reds. Not this one. Roman Roth, their very talented longtime winemaker, has incorporated a little Merlot and even a pinch of Petit Verdot into the blend. It’s either the blend or his talent — perhaps both — that imparts elegance to this Malbec. Unlike many Malbecs, this one is multidimensional. Roth has turned down the volume — it weighs in at a modest 13 percent started alcohol — so you can hear the notes. The suave texture means it is ideal for meat from the grill this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 26, 2022