($50):  Taurasi remains an underappreciated DOCG.  Those unfamiliar with the wines from the volcanic soil in this part of Campania need to discover them.  Donnachiara’s is a good place to start.  Made entirely from the Aglianico grape, it has a tarry power that belies its modest, 13.5 percent stated, alcohol.  Rich and dense, it’s not particularly fruity.  Rather it emphasizes minerals and earth and finishes with an alluring hint of bitterness, a trait I always find appealing because of how it balances the richness of meat.  This bold wine is not the least bit overdone or “in-your-face.”  Indeed, its alluring texture and suaveness makes it all the more enticing.  It will certainly benefit from a few years in the cellar.  If you pull the cork now, save it for a cold rainy (or snowy) evening.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 12, 2022