($139, Vintus):  Bollinger’s 2014 is an outstanding wine, filled with paradoxes.  Which, of course, is one reason it’s so wonderful.  Its power and simultaneous restraint is perplexing.  Tightly wound at this stage, its power is still apparent, like a tiger ready to leap.  Its seeming austerity is unusual for Bollinger, but it just speaks to its youthfulness.  This will not remain austere!  Its elegance is beguiling.  Its creamy texture is magical.  It is one of things that makes this Champagne so alluring.  A fine vein of acidity buttresses without a hint of aggressiveness and amplifies the wine’s charm in the finish.  This is a Champagne to cellar and then savor.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 12, 2022