($19, Deprez Wines):  Looking for a wine with a cheese course?  Look no further.  Producers in the Coteaux de Layon, a small appellation in the Loire, transform the Chenin Blanc grape into lush sweet wines, such as this one.  Dark straw yellow, the wine delivers a honeyed richness first in its aromas and then on the palate.  It’s not cloying or even sugary because of its bracing acidity.  In addition to cheese, if you’re still eating foie gras or other rich patés, here’s the perfect wine.  It’s a bargain to boot.  And sweet wines such as this one will last at least a week open in the fridge, so you needn’t feel guilty about opening a bottle just to have a glass.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 25, 2022