($69): Far Mountain is a new project by two Chileans who have a vast experience in the wine business, the husband and wife team of Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto. Mai, from the family that founded Viña Errazuriz, a leading Chilean producer, also has experience in California as marketing director for Quintessa. Soto is Quintessa’s estate director. Three-quarters of the grapes for this wine come from Alta Vista vineyard, a high elevation site in the Moon Valley AVA of the Mayacamas Mountains. The vines there are roughly fifty-years old and have never been irrigated. The remaining grapes come from the organically-farmed Murray Ranch Vineyard, another mountain site in the Sonoma Mountain AVA. The background of the principals and the source of the grapes predicts a top-notch wine. In this case, what’s in the glass confirms the expectations. Tightly wound initially, this nicely chiseled wine reveals itself as it sits in the glass. This is not a wine to rush. It develops intriguing complexity with air. Dark fruit and mineral-like flavors emerge. Unlike many wines made from mountain fruit, this one has a fine texture. Despite a stated 14.5 percent alcohol, Fission is not overdone or in-your-face. It’s quite refined and finesse filled. If you are serving it now, decanter it a couple of hours in advance for full enjoyment.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 7, 2021