($22):  White wines from Roero, an area just across the Tanaro River from Barolo, must contain at least 95 percent Arneis, a grape that has been resurrected over the last over the last several decades.  Arneis likely was neglected because Piedmont, after all, is known for its red wines.  Producers have told me the grape was blended with Nebbiolo to soften that grape’s tannins, much like Viognier has been blended with Syrah in the Rhône Valley.  Fortunately, producers, such as Tenuta Carretta, have seen its true potential.  This one, not an opulent wine, has substance and power offset by a saline-line minerality.  It has a real presence.  Great acidity gives it life.  A subtle hint of iodine-like bitterness in the finish makes is a wonderful match with hearty pasta dishes.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 23, 2021