($34, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Wines made from grape grown on the lava-rich slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna transmit their origins beautifully and precisely.  The cherry-like fruitiness of this Etna Rosso takes a back seat to its angular lava-tinged character.  Wonderfully austere, this sleek wine delivers a saline-like freshness.  Its austerity notwithstanding, it packs persistence.  This chiseled wine is perfect to offset the fleshiness of rich meaty dishes.  It is not one to sip before dinner, but rather to drink with slow-cooked short ribs.  I suspect it will develop with bottle age, but it’s fine to drink now.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2021