($169, Massanois): This 100 percent Merlot is equally expressive and explosive as Bertinga’s Punta di Adine, just in an entirely different way. While Punta displays red fruit qualities, Volta di Bertinga is all about black fruit complemented by tar-like minerality. It’s a wonderful red-black contrast. Though powerful and dense, Volta is not overwrought or overdone. It has an engaging suave texture and enlivening acidity that keeps it fresh and balanced. Its black fruit succulence and minerality was a delight even the next day after sitting opened on the counter. Bertinga is clearly a producer to watch.
96 Michael Apstein Aug 24, 2021