($78, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Quinta do Crasto has produced this wine made exclusively from Touriga Nacional, the Douro’s most prestigious grape, only a dozen times this century.  Though bigger and bolder than their Douro Superior, it is far more elegant with suave, silky tannins.  Its array of dark fruit and spice changes as it sits in the glass, so every sip brings new delight.  It is weighty, but not heavy, tipping the scales at only 13.5 percent stated-alcohol.  This muscular wine is amazingly fresh and uplifting considering its power.  Think LeBron James.  Its refined texture and vivacity allow you to enjoy it now, but I suspect it will develop beautifully with bottle age because of its balance.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 13, 2021