($17, Taub Family Selections):  Limoux, a village in the foothills of the Pyrenes in southwestern France, has a long tradition — likely longer even than Champagne — for making sparkling wines.  Côté Mas, led by Jean-Claude Mas and his encompassing 15 properties covering about 2,000 acres, is one of the leading producers in the Languedoc.  A masterful blend of Chardonnay (60%), Chenin Blanc (20%), Pinot Noir (10%) and Mauzac, this Crémant de Limoux is a great buy.  Neither soft nor aggressive, a good spine of acidity balances subtle fruitiness.  It delivers far more elegance than the price would suggest, which makes it an excellent choice as an “everyday” bubbly.  I recommend keeping a couple of bottles cold for when friends drop over.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021