($11): With its 15 percent-stated alcohol, this deeply colored and broad-based, bold Bordeaux emphasizes ripe and lush fruitiness, yet has sufficient balancing herbal character. Good acidity keeps it fresh and a pleasant hint of bitterness in the finish adds to its character. It’s a good one for current drinking with grilled flank or skirt steak, and reminds us that all Bordeaux need not reside in the cellar for a decade or be available to only the “one-percenters.” It’s a great bargain for this summer’s grilling season.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 27, 2021