($15, Enotec Imports):  Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is one of Italy’s great white wines that flies under most peoples’ radar.  Italian wine regulators awarded the top category, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva, DOCG status, showing the potential of the region.  But even the wines that carry just the DOC, especially those labeled Classico, which indicates that the grapes were grown in the central — best — area, are worth trying to see the potential of the Verdicchio grape in this area.  (Superiore means the grapes were a bit riper, imparting slightly more alcohol to the wine.)  CaselFarneto’s 2017 has excellent weight without being overdone, which means it holds up nicely with flavorful fare, such as a tomato-based seafood pasta.  Clean and fresh, its mineral or stony side shines, and balances its density.  Plus, it’s a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 23, 2021