Latour’s steely style explains why the 2009 is another success in a warm year not known for great white wines. Clearly ripe, but without a trace of over ripeness, it displays more pineapple than pepper, retaining elegance despite the richness. The winemaking team captured good acidity and energy – it still displays vivacity the next night – especially considering the vintage. It may lack the verve of the 2008 and 2010, but it is seductively luxurious and welcoming now.