There’s no surprise here. The 2004 remains fabulous as it has been since release. There’s hardly any sign of age, except a darker straw colour. Subtle spice and pineapple-like fruitiness complement its minerality. Paradoxically explosive, it exhibits real finesse and grace, befitting its grand cru status. Its vibrancy belies its 16 years of age. It was still going strong the following night, so I suspect this one will continue to give pleasure for another decade.