($43):  With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards.  As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out.  Les Duresses is the village’s best vineyard, which is why its name has been appended to the village’s original name.  I tasted a barrel sample about 15 months ago in their cellars and loved it.  Now that it’s been bottled, it’s even better.  Its lovely firmness and bright cherry-like fruitiness show that Lafouge avoided the potential for over ripeness in 2018.   It’s glossy and long with minerals complementing its fruitiness.  Quintessential Burgundy, it’s filled with charm, is light as a feather, yet full of flavor.  Though you can safely buy any of Lafouge’s wines, this 1er cru from Auxey-Duresses is a star.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021