($150, WineSmith Company):  The packaging and verbiage, 14.9 percent stated alcohol, the over-sized 2.6-pound (empty) bottle and the back label informing that the wine was aged in” very special French oak” for two years, put me off.  But I remember how impressive their second wine, simply labeled “17” was.  And once again, just as you can’t judge a book by its cover, you can’t judge a wine by its packaging.  This is a fabulous young wine from the Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s greatest wine regions.  Dark, powerful and plush, the wine is not flamboyant or overdone.  Indeed, it’s wonderfully balanced, carrying the alcohol and the “very special French oak” effortlessly and without a trace of heat or woodiness.  Tightly wound, it gradually reveals its mineral-infused glory over time in the glass.  It’s more savory than fruity, though there’s plenty of the latter.  The tannins are barely noticeable because they are so fine and well-integrated.  Paradoxically, it’s powerful, yet reticent, and finishes with a delightful hint of bitterness, which, to me, is a hallmark of a great wine.  It’s one for the cellar, to be sure.  But it you can’t wait and your budget allows you to buy multiple bottles, open and decant one hours before you drink it with garlic-infused roasted leg of lamb this winter.
97 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2020