($47, Tradizione Imports): The Sagrantino grape does not make wimpy wines. So, there’s no surprise that this one is big and bold, weighing in at 15.5 percent stated-alcohol. And, as expected from wines from this DOCG, its tannic youthfulness is in evidence. The surprise, however, is the balance. Despite its size, it’s not heavy. It carries the alcohol, the tannins, and the flavor beautifully. Great acidity keeps it fresh. A hint of bitterness in the finish shows it’s not made from over-ripe grapes. Its profile demands hefty meat, such as grilled lamb studded with garlic, or wild game.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2020