($17, Seaview Imports): Most people don’t think of northeastern Italy for Cabernet Sauvignon. Indeed, Friuli Venezia Giulia is home to some of Italy’s best white wines. But, some Cabernet — both Sauvignon and Franc — are grown on the well-drained gravelly soil, which gives its name to the DOC (Friuli Grave). With a combination of delicate red fruit-like flavors and lovely earthy notes, this mid-weight wine is decidedly enjoyable now. Mild tannins allow it to take a chill without unmasking astringency. Bright acidity and herbal nuances add to its appeal. Those looking for the power and oomph of California Cabernet will not embrace this restrained style of wine.
88 Michael Apstein Jun 16, 2020