($38, HB Wine Merchants): Peter Zemmer’s single-vineyard Giatl is a very different style of Pinot Grigio from his regular (I hate that word to describe that wine, which is anything but regular) bottling. The Giatl has power and a Burgundian-like weight and to it. A hint of lanolin-like texture makes it all the more appealing. This is weighty serious stuff. Those looking for a glass of “Pinot Grigio” should look elsewhere. Those who want to see what the grape can achieve should pull the cork.
94 Michael Apstein May 12, 2020