($17, HB Wine Merchants):  There’s Pinot Grigio, and then there’s Pinot Grigio.  One taste of Peter Zemmer’s explains why the category is so popular.  Delicate hints of white flowers greet you when you pull the cork.  A refined and restrained fruitiness follows.  It startles you with its elegance, not its power.  Bracing acidity in the finish amplifies its charms.  Fine as a stand-alone aperitif, it would do well with delicate seafood, such as sautéed sea bass.
92 Michael Apstein May 12, 2020