($65, WineSmith Company):  Bodegas Pinea, a new entry in Ribera del Duero, is off to an excellent start.  Founded just this decade, their first release of their flagship wine, Pinea, was in 2017, which gave rise to the name of this wine, 17, their second label.  Brimming with spice and dark fruit flavors, it’s a terrific second wine.  Made entirely from Tempranillo, it’s certainly big, but not boisterous or overdone.  Its depth nicely balances its 14.8 percent stated alcohol, keeping it in check.  To be sure, it’s a winter kind of wine, perfect for hearty roast or a leg of lamb.  This is not a before-dinner sipper.  For all its power, it is not heavy or over-the-top.  An uplifting raciness keeps it going throughout a meal.  An attractive hint of tar-like bitterness in the finish balances its fruitiness.  I just wish they’d ditch the overly heavy bottle.  The wine speaks for itself.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 21, 2020