($50, Sovereign Wine Imports): Roussanne, an important white grape in the Rhône Valley, has taken hold in Australia. Though usually blended with Marsanne and other varieties, Yangarra uses it exclusively in this wine. The grape takes its name from the russet (roux) like color of the mature grapes, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes. That explains the name Yangarra uses for the wine. It’s apt because the wine is beautiful, though not for everyone. You need to like minerals and bitterness. Slightly floral, it conveys stone fruit-like flavors with a hint of bitterness in the finish. Though by no means voluptuous, it is gorgeously textured. It expands and draws you in as it sits in the glass. The wine screams for food, a sautéed chicken with mushrooms, perhaps.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2020