($27):  Vangelis Gerovassiliou, the man credited with rescuing this grape from extinction, makes a superb example of it at his estate near Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the country’s most important port.  The captivating combination of subtle tropical fruits and bracing acidity is, of course, present.  But there is an added gracefulness and a palate-caressing texture that adds to its appeal.  This is a sophisticated wine whose price belies its qualities.  It shines next to simply grilled fish accented by lemon-infused olive oil.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2020