($35):  Prices of Assyrtiko from Santorini, rapidly becoming the signature white wine from Greece, have always been higher than other Greek white wines because of the labor-intensive farming involved.  Farmers plant the basket-like vines in holes to protect them from the winds.  What’s worse is that prices will continue to rise because of tourist development of the island.  That said, this wine is a bargain for the pleasure it delivers.  It also demonstrates that Assyrtiko, in the best hands, needs some time in the bottle to develop, similar to white Burgundy.  There is a glorious combination of elegantly textured minerality, softened just a bit by age, and invigorating citrus acidity.  The patina of maturity and the energy of the wine is enthralling.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020