($19):  Malagouzia, sometimes spelled Malagousia, an aromatic indigenous northern Greek grape, was nearly extinct until the 1970s when an enology professor encouraged Vangelis Gerovassiliou (one of his students and now one of the best producers of it), to explore its possibilities.  The rest is history.  Malagouzia is now grown all over Greece and makes a uniquely delightful wine.  This one, from a leading estate located in the north, shows its charms, an ideal combination of subtle floral and tropical notes with bracing acidity.  The tropical aspect is subtle, which makes it even more appealing.  The acidity holds it throughout a meal.  Though it’s great with grilled fish, it would do well along-side sushi or mildly spiced dishes.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020