($37):  Andrea Franchetti, who also owns Tenuta Trinoro, an estate in Tuscany’s Val D’Orcia, started a winery in Sicily about 20 years ago.  In a bold move, he planted 10 acres of Chardonnay at high elevations (2,500 to 3,000 feet above sea level) in powdery lava soil, figuring that the elevation and soil would impart a distinctive character to this grape.  He was right.  Though the grape name is not on the label, it’s 100 percent Chardonnay.  But this is no blowsy, New World Chardonnay.  Rather, it a cutting, mineral-infused tightly wound wine that would benefit from another few years of bottle aging or certainly a few hours of aeration if you’re drinking it today.  As it sits in the glass, its minerality blossoms.  Uplifting salinity in the finish makes you want another sip.  Its focused and piercing style makes it a superb choice for a tomato-based seafood dish, a hearty seafood stew, simply grilled swordfish, or even, given the time of year, turkey.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2019