($95): Vietti, clearly one of Piedmont’s and Italy’s top producers and known for their stunning array of Barolo, makes only one Barbaresco, currently, according to their website. Labeled, “Masseria,” it comes from two vineyards in Neive and Treiso. The 2015, from a riper vintage, is gorgeous and particularly engaging at this point in its life. Both elegant and explosive, it has the Vietti impeccable balance. It conveys the Burgundian-like sensibility of flavor without weight and then Nebbiolo’s firm tannins appear, providing structure. It already shows fabulous complexity, with an intermingling of fruit and earth flavors. Its balance and Vietti’s talents suggest it will develop beautifully over the next decade or two. I’d advise either drinking it now to capture its youthful exuberance or wait a decade to savor its mature elements that I am certain will develop.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2019