($30, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, the largest producer in Liguria, shows that big can be outstanding. Niccoló V, their flagship red, is named for a Pope who was born nearby the winery. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Pollera Nera, which their website says is grown nowhere else in Italy. The 2015 is sensational. It’s floral, savory and layered with flavor. It’s a suave wine that wins you, not with power, but with elegance, length and complexity. It’s a bargain for what it delivers and you can enjoy it now because of its sublime texture.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2019