($15, HB Wine Merchants):  Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy.  Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group.  An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment.  It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland.  This one has character and verve and explains why the variety became so popular initially.  A wisp of bitterness in the finish enhances its overall appeal.  Both refreshing and serious, it does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to simply prepared seafood.  Buy it by the case for the rest of summer.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019