($60, Montcalm Wine Importers): This, Bosoni’s “number one,” is a limited production of 2,600 bottles from a single 20-hl barrel, where the wine rested on the lees for 14 months. The lees aging adds richness and roundness, which results in a different expression of Vermentino. Though still bright and refreshing, the wine’s suaveness mutes its vivacity a bit. Bosoni’s Numero Chiuso and their Cavagini complete a gorgeous quartet of Vermentino that offers something for everyone.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019