P. Ferraud & Fils, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Les Charmes 2018

($20):  Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record.  Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016. Judging from the few I tasted so far, including this one, I agree with that assessment.  Les Charmes, another climat in Morgan, is home to less forceful wines — dare I say, charming — than those from Côte du Py. Ferraud’s 2018 certainly is.  Bursting with fruit, paradoxically, it is not “fruity,” because of its structure and energy.  Long and elegant, this is a fabulous Morgon.  For us consumers, I hope he finds an importer, soon.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019