($20): Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record. Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016. Judging from the few I tasted so far, including this one, I agree with that assessment. Les Charmes, another climat in Morgan, is home to less forceful wines — dare I say, charming — than those from Côte du Py. Ferraud’s 2018 certainly is. Bursting with fruit, paradoxically, it is not “fruity,” because of its structure and energy. Long and elegant, this is a fabulous Morgon. For us consumers, I hope he finds an importer, soon.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019